5.2.2007
New York Times julkaisi tänään tosi mielenkiintoisen artikkelin (Help, We're Drowning in the Sea of Shows, by Eric Wilson, 5.2.2007) Nykin muotiviikkojen muotinäytösten ylitarjonnasta, hinnoista ja siitä, miten media suhtautuu näytöksiin.
Koko artikkeli löytyy täältä: http://www.nytimes.com/2007/02/05/fashion/05SHOWS.html?_r=1&oref=slogin, mutta tässä mielenkiintoisimmat kohdat:
"Increasingly, some shows go on before houses that are either half-empty or filled with the friends of the designers, models and show sponsors — anyone to whom watching a collection of overworked jeans and distressed jackets circling in Bryant Park sounds like an exciting Saturday night.
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During Fashion Week, which began on Thursday — and tellingly runs nine days — 221 designers are planning shows, every hour from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., with as many as six scheduled simultaneously. A decade ago, during the fall 1997 collections, there were 91. Some critics are wondering if the proliferation of new designers, once regarded as a measure of New York’s strength as a fashion capital, has become a liability.
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In New York, anyone wishing to call herself a designer can have a show, for a budget as slim as a few thousand dollars — provided the models are working for trade — to an average of $100,000 for a midsize show. There are no juries to determine who can show and at what time. The closest thing to a referee is the Fashion Calendar, a stapled newsletter listing showtimes, which has been published for more than half a century by Ruth Finley, who is 87.
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For editors choosing which ones they see, there are priorities. “Of course, we have to see the majors,” said Agnes Cammock, the fashion director of Essence. “The next thing is the advertisers. And after that, you go to the designers you hear the most buzz about or as many as you can.”
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Jamie Pallot, the editorial director of CondéNet, said the staff at its Style.com Web site is besieged by requests from designers and their publicists for coverage. Eight editors from the site plan to attend a total of 166 shows, and 90 will be reviewed, less than half the overall pool of designers.
“We try to be as fair and balanced as we can,” Mr. Pallot said. “It’s an editorial call as to who we publish.”
Still, IMG, the company that produces the shows in Bryant Park, has growing ambitions for Fashion Week. It is looking for a new location beginning in 2008 with the expectation that the event will continue to attract more designers, despite complaints that it has grown too big for its own good. Fern Mallis, an IMG vice president, said it is the exposure that has grown — the company receives more than 3,000 requests for media credentials each season — which in turn has attracted more designers."
Mietin tässä, että pitäisikö näytösten määrää vähentää ja kiristää kriteereitä, vai pitäisikö suunnittelijoiden keksiä muita tapoja esitellä mallistonsa? Kokevatko suurten muotiviikkojen näytökset inflaation - kuka haluaa toteuttaa kalliin näytöksen, jos kukaan ei ole katsomassa?